When you park your tiny house in a new location—whether it’s a friend’s backyard or a remote BLM campsite—darkness can be unnerving. Security lighting is your first line of defense. It deters prowlers and keeps you from tripping over your trailer tongue at night.
But unlike a standard home where you just wire a floodlight to 120V AC, a Tiny House on Wheels (THOW) has specific constraints: Power Availability and Road Aerodynamics.
This guide compares the two main strategies: Stick-on Solar vs. Integrated 12V Systems.
Option A: Solar Motion Lights (The Quick Fix)
These are the all-in-one units you see on Amazon. They have a small solar panel on top, a battery inside, and an LED array.
The Pros
- Zero Wiring: You can screw (or stick) them anywhere without drilling holes in your siding or running wire through your walls.
- Off-Grid Friendly: They don’t drain your house’s main battery bank.
- Cheap: You can outfit the whole house for under $50.
The Cons for Tiny Houses
- Winter Failure: In winter (when you need light the most), the days are short and often gray. Small solar panels rarely harvest enough energy to last through a long, cold night.
- Highway Hazards: Most cheap solar lights mount with a simple plastic bracket. At 60 MPH, wind vibration can snap the plastic, sending your light flying on the highway.
- Theft: ironically, solar security lights are easy to steal because they aren’t hardwired.
Best Practice for Solar
If you go this route, do not leave them attached during transport. Mount them using industrial Velcro or slide-mounts so you can take them down before driving.
Option B: Hardwired 12V Lighting (The Pro Solution)
This involves running 2-wire DC cabling from your 12V fuse block to exterior fixtures, just like an RV.
The Pros
- Reliability: As long as your house batteries have power, your security lights work. You aren’t dependent on today’s sun.
- Control: You can wire them to a master switch inside. If you hear a noise outside, you can flip one switch to flood the perimeter with light without opening the door.
- Durability: 12V fixtures (often designed for RVs or marine use) are built to withstand vibration and moisture better than residential fixtures.
The Cons
- Installation: Requires planning during the rough-in electrical phase. Retrofitting is difficult once walls are closed.
- Power Draw: If you leave them on all night, they draw from your main bank. (Use LEDs and motion sensors to mitigate this).
The Optimal 12V Lighting Plan
If you are building from scratch, plan for these three zones:
1. The “Porch” Light (Entry)
- Type: 12V RV “Scare Light” or Marine LED Dome.
- Switch: Manual switch inside the door + Motion sensor.
- Purpose: Finding your keys and greeting guests.
2. The “Tongue” Light (Utility)
- Type: LED Flood/Work Light.
- Location: Mounted high on the front wall, aimed down at the propane/battery box.
- Purpose: Changing propane tanks at night or hitching up the truck in the dark. This is the most underrated light on a tiny house!
3. The “Blind Side” Security Lights
- Type: Slim-profile LED strips or flush-mount puck lights.
- Location: The back and non-door side of the house.
- Switch: Motion sensor only (to save power).
- Purpose: To startle anyone sneaking around the back where you have no windows.
Highway Safety: Choosing the Right Fixture
Avoid standard residential sconces (the “lantern” style).
- Aerodynamics: A lantern sticking out 6 inches acts as a wind catch. It will likely rip off or shatter.
- Profile: Choose Flush-Mount or Low-Profile RV fixtures. They should protrude no more than 1-2 inches from the siding.
- Lens: Polycarbonate lenses are preferred over glass for impact resistance.
Conclusion
For a dedicated tiny house, Hardwired 12V systems are superior. They offer peace of mind, interior control, and road-worthiness that cheap solar lights can’t match. If you are already built and wired, use high-quality solar lights, but treat them as “setup items” that you deploy when parked, not permanent fixtures.